bistdunarrisch

joined 8 months ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

I couldn’t agree more, thank you for sharing so much information!

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 week ago

We were in exactly the same situation and bought a Fuji camera. We are very happy with our decision as we can shoot both 'normal' photography with the feeling of a nice camera body and astrophotography on a beginner level.

The results we got so far exceeded our expectations by far, we posted some of our images here in this sub or here in full resolution .

One thing to keep in mind is that normal cameras block most of the infrared light, which makes it unsuitable for shooting hydrogen nebulae. That's a minor reason why we eventually chose a Fuji camera, as they filter a bit less infrared than other brands.

In the end the biggest impact makes the lens/telescope. After a lot of research we chose the Samyang/ Rokinon 135mm f2.0 lens. Also we found it very rewarding shooting with such a 'small' focal length because it forgives minor inaccuracies while giving very good results.

For us the biggest reasons for this hobby are to experience the night sky with our own equipment and learning very much (about physics, processing the data, cameras, ...). Both things can be achieved with modest equipment and I would keep that in mind when comparing own images with others. Also I personally love the challenge to get the best possible results with things you already have.

Hope that helped a bit.

[–] [email protected] 7 points 2 weeks ago

Full resolution image and more details here

Also this is what our setup looks like to shoot such an image:

 

We shoot this image over two nights to reveal the faint structures of the veil nebula complex.

Shot with a 135mm lens and a Fuji X-T5.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Also this is a 3d animation of our setup used to shoot this image:

31
Veil nebula complex (lemmy.world)
submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

We finally got two clear nights and although the moon was really bright, this target came out quite well due to the narrowband filter.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • Duo narrowband filter

Images:

  • 466 x 60s lights
  • ISO 3200
  • @f2.8

Editing:

  • Stacking with drizzle in Siril
  • Background removal in GraXpert
  • photometric color calibration in Siril
  • BlurXTerminator
  • 0.3 denoising with BlurXTerminator
  • Star removal
  • Stretching in Siril with GHST
  • final composing in Photoshop (saturation, contrast, blending with stars)

Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/198606/deep_sky/ngc-6974/veil-nebula-complex/by-maxi_franzi

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I can recommend this online telescope simulator where you can simulate the field of view with your equipment. Your 300mm lens should be absolutely perfect

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

This lens is incredibly sharp and produces nearly no coma. Also the image is super flat and the lens also works for full frame cameras. For its high image quality it‘s also used by some more advanced astrophotographers.

As I bought it new for 400€ this was a no brainer because we can also use it for 'normal' photography.

I‘m sure your lens works well for many nebulae!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Thank you! Andromeda is way bigger than most people think. That’s the reason why it is a very (maybe the most) popular target for beginners. Also there went a lot of processing into the image, so don’t let the image deceive you from the actual conditions where I live (Bortle 5 zone)

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago (5 children)

The lens is the telescope in this case. But as the focal length of 135mm is fairly short it works best for objects appearing very large in the sky. Astrophotography can get very expensive very quickly, so we try to make the most out of the equipment we have. Just like with the 3d printed mount.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (7 children)

The Samyang 135mm f2.0. In some markets it‘s also called Rokinon

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Thank you! I agree, it really is an amazing topic.

[–] [email protected] 15 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (11 children)

Glueing and screwing the parts:

One result shot with this mount (and many other accessories):

124
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I found this design and it fitted my need perfectly. It is a mount for a very popular camera lens used in astrophotography. It not only functions as a weight relief for the camera but also allows to rotate the field of view. Moreover it is possible to focus the lens with the installation of a stepper motor, which will be the next step.

The single parts are screwed together with the help of threaded heat inserts. Just to make sure they are also glued together with epoxy, as the mount really needs to hold up. The screws are locked with Loctite.

Edit: Link to the mount (not my design): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6099113

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Very interesting, thank you for sharing. Your linked gif makes it very apparent that it was indeed a satellite.

I also searched in Stellarium and found a decommissioned military satellite called STSS Demo 2 that fits the path and time stamp perfectly.

-9 magnitude is insane, must’ve been a very cool sight.

50
M31 (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

~~We got a lucky shot of Andromeda with a meteor crossing our view.~~ Apparently we shot a satellite flare next to Andromeda.

Images:

  • Samyang 135mm @2.8
  • Fuji X-T5
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • 465 x 30s
  • ISO 200

Processing:

  • stacking, stretching, background extraction and star separation in Siril
  • final composition in Photoshop
29
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Although the seeing was not great we managed to get our first shot of the region around Sadr.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm
  • Fuji X-T5
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • STC Clip In filter (multi narrowband)

Images:

  • 296x 30s
  • ISO 800
  • f2.0

Editing:

  • stacking and stretching in Siril
  • BXT
  • gradient removal and denoise in Graxpert
  • final editing in PS

Full resolution and more infos: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/192523/deep_sky/crescent-nebula/NGC/6888/diffuse-nebula/by-maxi_franzi

22
M16 Eagle Nebula (lemmy.world)
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm
  • Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • STC Clip In Filter

Images:

  • 318 x 30s
  • ISO 800
  • f2.0

Editing:

  • Siril for stacking and stretching
  • Graxpert Background removal & denoise
  • BXT
  • Photoshop for final editing

Full resolution and more info: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/192387/deep_sky/omega-or-swan-nebula/M/17/diffuse-nebula/by-maxi_franzi

101
M51 (lemmy.world)
 

Whirlpool galaxy shot at 135mm.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5

Images:

  • 723 x 60s
  • ISO 400

Full resolution: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/188842/deep_sky/whirlpool-galaxy/M/51/galaxy/by-maxi_franzi

 

Wide field shot of the virgo cluster.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm
  • Fuji X-T5
  • Star Adventurer 2i

Images:

  • 387 x 30s
  • ISO 400
  • f2.0

Full resolution and more info: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/188443/deep_sky/markarian-chain/galaxy/by-maxi_franzi

88
Orion (lemmy.world)
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Hope this low effort post is accepted, I just wanted to share my first image when I started.

There was no telescope or tracker used, just a smartphone leaned against my wallet.

Images:

  • ~400 x 1s
  • ISO 3200

Editing:

  • stacking/ stretching in Siril
  • GraXpert for gradient and denoising
  • BlurXTerminator for deconvolution
  • Starnett++ to edit the barely visible nebula a bit better
  • final editing in Photoshop
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